Ask the Expert

With most heating loops this is not a problem, as long as there is access underneath. Call our office and schedule an estimate. Thanks

Thank you!

The removal or reduction of dust is done by whatever type of filtration system that is attached to the heat pump or geothermal unit. The same filter system can be attached to the oil furnace as well. As for the cost to upgrade to a heat pump or geothermal system, the geothermal is much more expensive than air source heat pump and will depend on what type of system is used outside (wells or ground loops). A geothermal system can be connected to a water heater to supplement heating the domestic water. We would be happy to help you choose the right system for your needs. Hope this helps!!

$150-$200 plus service call. Depending on how bad the tankless heater is plugged.

Most systems have a lifetime of 10 to 20 years. As your equipment gets older, it's efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. When a unit begins to show it's age, you have two choices. You can overhaul the system or replace it. Because heating and cooling technologies improve over time, a new system designed with newer, more energy-efficient equipment makes sense, especially if your system is 10 or more years old. We can estimate the cost of a new system as well as a payback schedule that will show you how newer technology will pay you back in lower energy usage.

No. Replacing only the outdoor unit will lower the efficiency of the unit. In fact, you can lose up to 15% of the unit's efficiency! Even worse, your system may fail sooner than normal and most manufacturers' warranties will be voided. You should always replace the indoor cooling coil with the outdoor unit.

At the risk of telling you something you're tired of hearing, replace the air filter in your furnace on a regular basis. Dirty air filters reduce the amount of air flowing through a system and make the furnace work harder to maintain the temperature. How often you change the filter depends on the type of filter you use, if you have pets, and the size of your equipment. Please give us a call and we can give you proper guidance.

Proper air filtration is just as important to the health of your heating and cooling system as it is to the health of your family. Without proper filtration, dust and dirt can build up on your system which impacts operation and efficiency. A high efficiency filter will remove more dust, dirt, pollen, mold, and other particles from the air. If you suffer from allergies or other respiratory problems, you should strongly consider a high efficiency filter. No matter what type of filter you have – make sure you change it regularly.

Yes. Keeping your system properly maintained will lower energy and repair costs, prevent breakdowns, and prolong the life of your equipment. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases. See our preventative maintenance page under "Services" or click here to view.

Without warranty coverage, a breakdown can mean significant expense in parts, labor, or both. However, with one of our service agreements, you avoid that unexpected significant expense. While no warranty can guard against every possible problem, we can explain the broad range of protection our service agreements afford.

With a high efficiency air cleaner, you can remove up to 99% of the pollen and spores that find their way into the home. There is also a great reduction in household dust, dirt, smoke, and other air pollutants. Your indoor air will become cleaner and fresher while reducing the allergens and dust that circulate throughout the house. With a whole house humidifier, you can relieve the irritating discomfort of dry indoor air. The humidifier reduces itchy skin, scratchy throats, static electricity, and damage to your furnishings and woodwork. Since humid air feels warmer than dry air, you do not have to set the thermostat as high to feel the comfort you want. A lower thermostat setting will reduce the costs of your energy bill. We offer a complete line of indoor air quality products to meet your needs. Click here to see our complete offering.

The Earth absorbs almost 50% of all solar energy and remains a constant temperature of 50°F to 70°F depending on geographical location. A geothermal unit utilizes this constant temperature for heating and cooling your home. You can realize up to 60% energy savings vs. traditional systems.  There is no flame, no flue, no odors and no loud outdoor equipment. Heating, air conditioning and hot water can all be attained from a single compact unit.

Variable speed fans operate on a simple principle: they are able to spin at different speeds depending on the heating and cooling needs of your home. Usually, they operate at lower speeds, delivering a steady, reliable stream of warm or cool air to your home. This helps control humidity levels, utility costs and system noise. When conditions become more extreme, the fan speed increases so that the system can meet increased demand, guaranteeing that on even the hottest days or coldest nights, you're comfort needs will be met.

Normal cooling settings are 75 degrees - 80 degrees. Normal heating settings are 68 degrees - 72 degrees. You should always set your thermostat to the highest possible setting that is comfortable for you in the summer, and the lowest comfortable setting in the winter. Setting your thermostat in this way will maximize your energy savings. On average, every 1 degree of temperature change is equal to about 1% energy savings. For example, changing your thermostat setting from 75 degrees to 76 degrees in the summer could result in savings on your cooling costs.

This can occur for many reasons; uneven solar heat load through windows, an undersized system, improperly balanced or clogged system or a single system serving a two-story home with no zoning control. Each situation is different, usually requiring an onsite analysis with problem specific recommendations.  Please call to arrange for us to see your home.

Yes. Each year, carbon monoxide kills more than 200 Americans and sends nearly 5,000 more to emergency rooms for treatment, reports the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Where does it come from? When carbon-based fuels such as gas, oil, kerosene or wood burn, they produce gases. When fuel combustion or burning isn't complete, carbon monoxide enters the air. The CPSC advises that carbon monoxide detectors are the only way to alert yourself to the presence of toxic gas in your home. If you wake in the night with a headache -- and especially if another member of the family complains of a headache or is difficult to arouse -- get out of the house fast and seek medical help. We recommend carbon monoxide detectors be installed in your home!

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture. Click here to learn more about mold prevention in your home from the EPA. When humid air passes over chilled cooling coils, water condenses and drips through the coils into a collection pan, from which it continuously drains. Problems with these systems may occur when this water collects and becomes stagnant or blocked, either on the coils or in the drip pan. The pan will grow mold that can infect your home with dangerous mold spores very quickly. Problems also exist when the HVAC ducting contains microscopic mold spores that stay continually present and blow contaminants around the home or office often caused by mold in other parts of your home.

You can do 3 things to prevent mold growth in your system:

• Preventative maintenance will ensure that the collection pan under the indoor coil stays clean and clog-free. Click here to view our preventative maintenance program.
• Install ultraviolet lights next to the cooling coils to kill any mold or bacteria growing on the coils or collection pan.
• Keep your ductwork clean and use a high-efficiency filtration system to keep your entire HVAC system clean.

No, you don't want your air conditioner to be too big. Air conditioners control the comfort level in your home by cooling the air and by removing humidity. An oversized air conditioner will cool your home faster, but it will use more energy and will not adequately remove humidity. A unit that is too big for your home will have short run cycles. It may take only a short time to cool the air, but the unit shuts off before enough air blows across the indoor coil where moisture condenses into water and drains from your system. Too much moisture left in the air can lead to mold and mildew problems. These short run cycles also mean your system starts and stops more often, which uses more energy and causes a lot of wear and tear. An air conditioner operates more efficiently during long run cycles. The same holds true with heating systems. An oversized furnace will warm the house quicker, but it uses more fuel and causes greater temperature swings in the home.

The water heater Energy Factor (EF) is a measure of the overall efficiency of the water heater. This is determined by comparing the energy in the heated water used daily to the total daily energy consumption of the water heater. The EF can be used to compare the energy efficiency of water heaters. Water heaters with higher EFs will have lower annual operating costs than comparable models with lower EFs. A higher EF signifies a more efficient model. Water heaters with high EF ratings may cost more initially, but save energy and money in the long run. Eventually, they will pay for themselves through a lifetime of energy savings. [cta_button text="Schedule Water Heater Service Today" url="/contact/" phone="724-417-9550"]

For most water heaters, the anode rod is attached to the hot water outlet of the water heater. If you are facing the front of the water heater (where the labels are), the hot water outlet is on the left hand side. The anode rod is often referred to as a "sacrificial rod".

Most water is rarely "pure". It can contain oxygen, magnesium, fluoride, chlorine and suspended particles. These components, in the concentrations in your water, are usually not bad for you. However, they do contribute to the taste and smell of the water. They also impart a slight conductivity to the water. Through an electrical process called electrolysis, this conductivity will eventually (over a long period of time) cause most metal to rust or corrode. When the water is heated, this electrical process can be accelerated.

Most water heaters are made of a steel tank with a porcelain enamel (glass) lining. However, due to production and assembly methods, it is not always possible to completely cover the inside of the tank. Therefore it is important to provide metal that can be consumed by the electrical process. This is where the sacrificial anode rod comes in. By acting as a lightning rod for the corrosion process, the anode rod draws the harmful electrolytic process away from the water heater tank and focuses the corrosion on the anode rod. Water heaters need this sacrificial anode rod to ensure that the electrolysis does not affect the tanks.

The answer may be that you have sediment buildup in your tank. As water heaters age, they tend to accumulate sediment and lime deposits. If the heaters are not cleaned periodically, the sediment may rise to a level that will act as a barrier between the burner and the water, making it harder to heat. An article published in a national ASPE plumbing journal states: for every half inch of sediment on the bottom of a gas fired water heater, it requires 70% more fuel to heat the water.

Yes. The Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) recommends that any flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment be replaced, not repaired. From the AHRI website, as it pertains to water heaters: "Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced. In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside. Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Therefore, be sure to replace this valve as well." (Taken from www.ahrinet.org) At the suggestion of AHRI, be sure to have your inspection and replacement work performed by a qualified professional.

With the increasing costs of energy and a desire for environmental friendliness, some customers are turning to the sun as a way to heat their domestic water. Bradford White manufactures a solar water heating storage tank for use with solar systems. This tank takes the heated water from the solar panels and uses it as a heat source instead of conventional gas, oil or electric heat sources unlike other tanks, this water heater has an electric heating element for back up on cloudy days, and when the solar system is not providing enough heat. However, it is important that you use only POTABLE (or domestic use) water in this tank.

A water heater should be placed in an area that will prevent damage to floors, ceilings, and furniture if the heater leaks. When this is not possible, a drain pan must be installed under the water heater. Since a typical drain pan doesn't hold that much water, it must have a pipe to a drain or other outlet for the water. When installed properly, a drain pan and pipe will keep any leakage under control and protect your belongings from water damage.

We recommend that you contact a plumbing professional to perform any maintenance or repairs to your water heater - from periodic checks on the anode rod to ensuring that all connections are secure. Recommendations for maintenance are in your water heater's owner manual. However, there are a few things that you can do:

• Ensure that there are no sources of flammable vapors in the same area as your water heater (this includes gasoline, heating oils, lighter fluid, propane, etc.).
• Keep the top of the water heater clean. If you notice water dripping on the water heater from any piping, contact a plumbing professional to have the leak repaired.
• Keep the space around your water heater clean and free of dirt, boxes, paint cans, aerosol cans, household cleaners and trash. It is important to keep the heater accessible for proper operation and easy maintenance.

While both types of appliances provide your home with reliable, efficient heating, a heat pump pulls double duty, also helping to cool your home in the summer. A traditional furnace generates heat by burning oil or gas and then distributes it to your home through your duct system. Rather than generating it, a heat pump uses a combination of electricity and refrigerant to extract heat from the air outside (even when it's cold), before transferring it to your indoor living space.

A furnace is a great choice for those who have access to natural gas, or have recently installed a new cooling system. A heat pump is a good option in homes that have no natural gas line, or those who are ready to replace both their heating and cooling systems. Because a heat pump operates most efficiently in climates where temperatures rarely fall below 40 degrees, in an area like Beaver County, homeowners who opt to install one may benefit from a supplemental source of heat during cold winter evenings.

The average lifespan of a furnace is between 12 and 15 years, but with regular maintenance and filter changes, they can last even longer. Tips include:

• Schedule annual routine maintenance each fall before you turn the furnace on to detect any potential issues before they can cause further damage.
• Change the filter every four to six weeks during peak heating season to keep system components clean and reduce wear and tear on parts.
• Increase system efficiency by sealing air leaks around windows and doors.
• Seal and insulate air ducts to prevent dirt and debris from entering, and conditioned air from escaping.
• Install a programmable thermostat and set it between five and ten degrees lower for times you are asleep or away from home. This can help extend the lifespan of your furnace by preventing unnecessary heating and saving on the cost of energy.

Annual preventive maintenance each spring and fall helps your HVAC equipment operate at peak performance year round. A trained technician will inspect, clean, and tune your equipment, and then diagnose and repair small issues before they become large, costly repairs. HVAC maintenance helps to prevent mid-season breakdowns, prolong the lifespan of your equipment, and keep your family safe and comfortable. When your HVAC system is operating efficiently, you spend less money to heat and cool your home and you can breathe easier with improved indoor air quality.

Because they have fewer components than a traditional furnace or heat pump, a professionally installed and maintained boiler can last upwards of 20 years. There are a number of factors that can decrease the life expectancy of your boiler, including corrosion and inadequate maintenance techniques. If your boiler is over 10 years old and there is visible corrosion or water leakage, or you find yourself spending a fortune on repairs, consider replacing it with a newer, more energy efficient model.